Oud Stars – how the rest fared

Over the last few days I’ve managed to try the remaining samples of the Oud Stars Collection by Xerjoff, and I was not disappointed.  I  liked a few, didn’t like a few others, but was never bored.

“Gao” might be the strangest fragrance I have ever tried because it had two unusual ingredients–Oud, of course, which is the resin of an agarwood tree being attacked by fungus; and saffron.  Yes, saffron.  Ever make a Spanish dish like paella and throw some saffron in there?  It has a very distinct odor, and it comes up in spades in Gao.  Once the perfume settled and my nose was able to get past the saffron, another woody scent came to the fore, but it wasn’t like pine or balsam, but rather similar to turpentine.   I’m sure this doesn’t sound very appealing and, in the first 10 minutes of wearing this scent I was thinking it was a definite thumbs down.  But it did start to grow on me and after an hour or so, I was really enjoying it.

“Najaf” was similar to Gao – it was very intense going on, but then mellowed to something bewitching.  Yes, this scent bewitched me.  Normally I don’t like the strong stuff, but for some reason I wanted to keep sniffing this one.  It was very smoky and oriental, almost like smelling those puffs of cloud incense they use in church.

“Mamluk” was like liquid honey.  It was very warm and fruity–absolutely my kind of scent. 

“Zafar,” on the other hand, had a strong oud smell that was barely masked with a floral scent.  Beneath it all was something resinous.  I didn’t think the three types of scents worked together very well.

So there you have it – a rundown on all of the Oud Stars scents.  If I were to pick a favorite, it would be Al Khatt.  Least favorite?  Zafar.

Marina de Bourbon

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I’m taking a break from the Oud Stars collection today to focus on another perfume I purchased during my second trip to Versailles, after my obsession with Marie Antoinette was firmly entrenched.

Now, on this second visit to Versailles, I had already done quite a bit of research on Marie Antoinette and also on the court of the Sun King, Louis XIV – another favorite of mine.  And so when I toured the palace I looked at the rooms in a new light, and imagined how daily life must have been for the women who lived there.  Surrounded by beauty and luxury, constant pampering, delicious meals, lavish entertainment…it sounds great.  But the fact is, they probably didn’t have much say regarding anything about their lives – what they ate, when they ate, what they wore, when they danced, how often they walked in the garden and when they left the palace.  They were at court and, as courtiers, had to behave in a way acceptable to both the public and the King.

Except for Marie, that is.  She rebelled against the strict regimentation — gambled, bought lavish amounts of clothes, took lovers, built her own house and generally caroused in high style.  Who can blame her, stuck with a husband like that and forced to acknowledge and accept her husband’s royal mistress?  Ugh.

I really enjoy this about her — she may have been forced to live a life she didn’t want but she didn’t take it laying down.

Anyway, during this visit to Versailles I went to the small store near the gates to the gardens and found a blue perfume, purported to be the favorite blend of Marie Antoinette.  I bought it, of course.  The palace store staff insisted that the perfumery, Marina de Bourbon, had created this scent especially for Versailles because it most closely resembles the formulation that Marie herself wore.  Unfortunately the scent is not named – the bottle simply references the perfumery, but nothing more.

So–what is the scent like?  I have to admit, it isn’t my favorite…  It’s overwhelmingly floral, much like Estee Lauder’s “Beyond Paradise” — jasmine, honeysuckle, that kind of thing without any real punch. 

I’ve heard that Parisian perfumery Lubin has released a new perfume “Black Jade,” which is based on another scent Marie supposedly adored.  Indeed – Lubin said that Marie wore this scent on her neck on her date with the guillotine.  Black Jade is on my purchase list but, for now, I’m going to go back to the Oud Stars collection to see how the remaining 4 scents compare to the first two.

A Fars Day with Oud Stars

Today I’m giving Fars a try, after having been in heaven all day yesterday smelling Al Khatt.  Both of these perfumes are part of Xerjoff’s Oud Stars line, which intrigued me initially because I didn’t know what Oud was. 

Now I know that Oud is a resin that an agarwood tree makes when it’s attacked by fungus.  I also know that Oud smells like some sort of sweet burning wood, similar to a Tiparillo, and it lends this incredible musky sweet undertone to otherwise floral scents.   In Al Khatt the oud scent was unmistakable, but in Fars, I’m not smelling it.

Fars seems to have a clean smell, like soap.  Where Al Khatt is warm and musky oud, Fars is cool and clean like lavender.

Now, everyone has their perfume likes/dislikes.  What I love, another person might think is skunk-like.  In any case, I have to admit that I am not a big fan of Fars because I’m missing that strange, musky oud smell that seems to grow on you the more you sniff.   I already have a few cool/clean scents, not high-end like this one but decent nevertheless when I’m going for a sporty scent, and to me Fars smells just like the others I have. 

If you want clean, go with Fars.  But if you’re like me and you like something that’s going to set your senses afire, stick with the Al Khatt.

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